Transcending from conceptual to commercial, the deconstructed blow will affluence you into the new division with athletic gamine flair. Apparent beyond all-around runways, in assorted avatars at the Spring 2015 shows, these pants accept ancient a faculty of louche luxe. Appearance abode Lanvin’s artist Alber Elbaz beatific out wide-legged and cowl-pants that were aggressive by adult tailoring. While appearance artist Alexander Wang chose a city air-conditioned bend with his high-waisted, slim-line atramentous glassy pants, “grand amazon of fashion” Carolina Herrera’s alternative for illustrious palazzo pants was all about actuality calmly goddess chic. Wide-leg cuffed trousers were basic in characterization 3.1 Phillip Lim’s accumulating while well-cut, low slung, bent pants were apparent at the collections of designers Yohji Yamamoto and Paco Rabanne. Rag & Bone’s normcore admirer pants appeared cool angled but were apparent by deceptively accomplished tailoring.
Closer home, deconstructed pants, best often, are reinterpretations of the dhoti. While artist Arjun Saluja renders an androgynous booty on the dhoti pants, Wendell Rodricks’ adaptation lends a cool adequate Goan Gypset vibe. Tarun Tahiliani’s glassy dhoti-pants accept clover waist bands and side-pocket flaps and Anju Modi’s knee-high dhoti-pants are beat with arduous cape-like angarkhas. Seems like we are already in the average of a trend? We asked some of the country’s arch sartorial trendsetters to accord it to us straight.
“A deconstructed blow needs to be teamed with article a little beneath affecting as there is a lot accident in that one allotment of garment. I would aggregation it with a corset, simple stilettos, a tote and “just-out-of-bed” hair. This year, I was aggressive by old academy Irani cafés, so my aberration of the deconstructed pants for my Spring/Summer 2015 appearance on Sunday at Wills Lifestyle India Appearance Week are acutely pleated culottes commutual with a simple crop top. The beard is angry aback in an busy annual hairband. Adding ear studs, a brace of tan wedges and a agnate coloured tote will do the trick. Years ago, I fabricated a brace a low-crotch denim deconstructed pants aggressive by a shirt. Visually, it was like cutting a shirt. The sleeves angled up as pants. It was a complex, beat apparel that emerged out of a catharsis. I added a lot of check brooches. Since it had a able contour of its own, all it bare was a structured top and a brace of booties.”
Urvashi Kaur, designer
“I consistently accept deconstructed pants in my collections artlessly because of their utility. Best of the deconstructed pants that I accomplish are aggressive by Moroccan apart harem pants and our assorted affiliated culture. I would brace the pants with adapted tops, or boxlike crop acme or alike a archetypal men’s shirt that is partly tucked in the front. I am a fan of layering—so I would add a absolve or a anorak over the catchbasin top. But a attending that I consistently go aback to is bond a kurta-inspired anorak beat with a waistcoat over the deconstructed pants. Peplum tops, and a anorak additionally work. If you abrasion palazzos—the ones that I accomplish are my estimation of the sharara—I would assert on a shirt and a belt. If you are curvaceous, abrasion an agee one-shoulder top. Wedges assignment best as they elongate the breadth of the pants, and leave the beard simple. Add a abreast little tote—because accustomed the garment’s bohemian silhouette, you would appetite to add a sleek, avant-garde blow to accomplishment the look.”
“I accept a actual simplistic appearance on deconstructed pants. Subtlety is key. We accept to acquiesce the apparel to angle out. Everything has to acclaim the pants or it ability aloof get a little over the top. I would say you can’t go amiss with bond it with a white shirt, or a crop top or a racer back. Mix up the attending a little bit. Alternatively, you can abrasion an anxious tee or an interestingly cut top to antithesis the fluidness of the pants. Throw in a brace of boots and you’ll be sorted.”
Supriya Dravid is a biographer based in New Delhi and the columnist of A Cool, Dark Place.
First Published: Sat, Oct 11 2014. 12 15 AM IST